Patagonia

The wind, a constant, often surprising force, sculpts the trees and shapes the land here, so even on a clear day, a good jacket is essential. You spend a lot of time looking at distances, the peaks appearing then vanishing behind clouds, the sheer space is something you feel in your bones. It is a land that asks for patience.

Getting about often means long bus rides between the small settlements, or hiring a vehicle to get closer to the national parks. Torres del Paine National Park is where many go, spending several days on foot, carrying what they need, moving between the refugios. This is not a place for quick visits; it rewards those who settle in for a while.

Evenings often involve a meal of roast lamb, a local staple, and poring over paper maps, planning the next day's route. The light takes on a particular quality as the sun drops, orange and sharp across the exposed rock and water. There is a quiet satisfaction in these simple routines, a focus on the immediate surroundings. Puerto Natales, a town on a deep fjord, often serves as a base, a place to restock before heading back out into the bigger country.