Iceland

The ground often smells of sulphur, a warm, mineral scent that carries on the wind. It reminds you this is a place built from the earth's deep core, a kind of constant, low-level hum under everything. The colours here are muted, blacks and greys of volcanic rock, mossy greens, and the deep blue of ice, so it feels quite stark.

Most people arrive in Reykjavík, which is a small, compact city. From there, the road system takes you along the coast, a single main route circles the island. Going inland means gravel tracks, often requiring a larger vehicle, so many stick to the ring road and its accessible detours, and that is how you move around it.

A few days here tends to involve driving, stopping often, and walking out into open spaces. You might spend time watching steam rise from hot springs, or observing the slow creep of glaciers. The scale of things is quite vast, so distances can take a little longer than you might expect.

Even in settled areas, the weather can shift quickly, from bright sun to driving rain in an hour. This means dressing in layers is always a good idea, and having a waterproof outer shell really helps. You learn to check the forecast, but also to just get on with it regardless, in any case.